LUGARES MAGAZINE Nro. 93
By: Lugares File
Photos: Federico Quintana, Ana Guilligan, Flavio De Mitri, Carolina
Aldao y Alejandro Peral
FISHING IN PATAGONIA
Lussich's life revolves around fishing. From November through March
he works as an expert instructor and guide on his estancia, on the
shores of Lake Quillen; and the rest of his year is spent in Buenos
Aires, promoting fly fishing as Secretary of the Mel Krieger Foundation,
the worldwide fly-fishing organization.
Formerly, banking meetings
were his favorite pastime - however, he doesn't regret the change,
not likely! The view from any of the three buildings on his estancia
-two on Lake Quillen and one on the river by the same name, some 7
km away from the others- would relax the most overstressed businessman.
All the guest houses are very well equipped, and include food specially
prepared to each guest's taste and preference. Purchasing is done
at Alumine, a 45 minute drive away. For Argentine Residents, the fully
equipped houses -for 6 people- range from US$ 150 to US$ 300 a day,
including the services of a caretaker, horses and a horse-trekking
guide, foot hiking and fishing in the lake.
Fly-fishing classes cost
US$ 30 for one and a half hours, and a sailing or fishing guide US$
80. LUGARES readers get a free fishing class in Buenos Aires or in
Port Lussich. Phone: (02942) 49-6013. In Buenos Aires, Phone/fax:
4393-1997. e-maiI: firstname.lastname@example.org
Lomas del Correntoso
it is not specifically a fishing lodge, few places combine as well
as Lomas does an excellent location with the services required by
a fisherman. That is why this place is also ideal to combine fishing
and family life. The units are semi-detached, with bedrooms on the
upper floor, and a sitting room, dining room and services on the ground
floor. It also has an "in/out" climatized pool, paddle and tennis
courts, a covered barbeque area, and a TV and games room.
include a kitchenette with an oven, an under-the-counter mini-fridge,
a microwave oven, crockery, and electric coffee machine, bed linen,
a wood-burning fireplace, heating, central hot water and cleaning
service. The units designed for 7 people also have a large fridge,
that is a welcome item after long days on the Correntoso and the secret
arms of Lake Nahuel Huapi. From December 28 to February 28, from $230
for the 2/4-guest apartment, breakfast included. Up to December 6,
from $165. Route 231 n/n and Lumilla. Phone: (02944) 49-4361. In Buenos
Aires, Phone: 4394-2146 and 4814-1667. e-mail: Iomasdelcorrentoso@ciudad.com.ar
El Dormilon del Machete
trout gillies even go into the lodge business. This was the case with
Gustavo Fernandez, from Bariloche and a resident in ViIla La Angostura,
a winter snowboarding instructor and a Nahuel Huapi Park guide and
gillie. A short time ago his dream of a cabin of his own on the Machete
arm of the lake finally came true. It is at the foot of Mt Dormilon
(Sleepy Mountain) and is only accessible from the lake. It has three
bedrooms and two bathrooms.
Among excursions offered are those of
the Machete river valley, Lake Gallardo and Dormilon Peninsula. Gustavo
advocates conservation and says, "no to greedy hoarding"; he is a
keen trekker and a "mountain cooking" fan, i.e.: cooking over an open
bonfire, sharing "mates" and stories. He accepts up to four guests
at a time. He has a motorboat, a semi-rigid rubber raft and a rowboat.
The complete package of fishing, adventure touring and trekking for
a minimum time of 2 days and maximum of 4 people costs $1.500 per
day. This includes lodging, shipping, food and equipment. Phone: (02944)
49-4778. e-mail: email@example.com
This is the deluxe hostelry that Italian Domenico Panciotto opened
on the shores of Lake Pulmari, on the Villa Pehuenia circuit. The
project took years to complete, and no one could believe he would
make such a large investment in such a remote wilderness area of Northern
Patagonia, 190 km from San Martin de los Andes.
There he built not
only 12 rooms with magnificent bathrooms and a splendid view, but
also a vegetable garden, supplying the needs of the restaurant, whose
gourmet menu is designed by chef Pablo Buzzo, of Caleuche. It is worthwhile
merely stopping by to eat or have tea, although a couple of days'
stay guarantee the non-fishermen a proper rest and a good time, and
to the fishermen a few good-sized 1 ½ k trout from the Pulmari river
and, if they're lucky specimens of up to 6 ½ kilos in the lake. For
the latter there are also courses on fly-tying and fly-fishing.
From November 1 to December 15, take advantage of the promotional
"buy one, take two" offer of a double room with full board at US$
150. Children from 2 to 10 years of age pay 75%. In/out transfers
from San Martin de los Andes included for a minimum of two people
and three-days' stay. Additional gillie fly-fishing service and transfer
to fishing areas cost US$ 100 a day per person. Phone: (02942) 49-6396.
the banks of the Chimehuin river, the noted trout-man, gillie Carlos
"Tuqui" Viscarro works with the Spring Creek cabins as a basis for
an intensive fly-fishing program. Ten km away from the town of Junin
de los Andes, this is a complex consisting of six large and super-comfortable
bungalows, with an excellent clubhouse.
For non-fishermen, Tuqui organizes
horse-riding outings and other programs. A 4-day package, with transfers
from San Martin de los Andes, two Rio Malleo wading sessions, fishing
in the Chimehuin, floating on the Alumine, and wading the Chimehuin
before returning to Chapelco airport, from $1,950 per person on a
double room basis. This includes a guide, permits, lodging with half-board
without drinks, including picnic refreshments for the fishing outings.
Otherwise, cabins for 4 go at $200 a day. Phone: (02972) 49-2568.
on the Vega de Maipu, the Quinen Inn has just joined the Wild Stream
Group, together with Damonte Turismo. Wild Stream offers fly fishing
programs in this area with the best gillies. A day's typical fishing
starts off with an excellent breakfast in the inn, later leaving for
the Alumine river, along the valleys of the Chimehuin and Malleo rivers.
After the morning's "bites", expect a delicious roast kid, accompanied
by an excellent wine. Following a welcome rest, you will resume the
browns and rainbows "trail", to end the day at the river's edge and
return to Quinen at dusk. The 4-day program consists of floating on
the Collon Cura, wading on the Caleufu and floating on the Chimehuin,
from $1,165 per person. This includes lodging, transfers, one gillie
every two fishermen, inflatable raft, food and drink, as well as transport
to fishing sites. Ruta 234 km 65.6. Phone: (02972) 42-5455. e-mail: